- Update (25.07.22): Nipplefix, hopefully the centering pins that tend to break, are fixed now. Try the "Nipplefix" version :-)
- Update (22.03.22): A Special Thanks to TadasMit, who bought you the Trident Version of the Idlers! There is more done as just removing the holes, its generally perfectly adopted for the Trident. So if you still using the 2.4 Idlers on a Trident, its time to upgrade! Another Note: Those who are using his Idlers (downloaded from the Issue thread where he posted them, don't need to Change anything!). There are small updates to 2.4 as well, just ignore those, these updates are only for first timers, to clear things a bit up. So nothing changed there other as names!
Old Changelog
- Update (02.09.21): STLs available for testing! Please print and report issues!- Update (03.09.21): Added "Upper" Z-Belt-Clamp, i need to redesgn the sliding mechanism. Still unhappy about it.
- Update (04.09.21): Added the final version, added all CAD/STL Files, now needs longtime testing. But it should be ready to use! From this point on, i will only update if i or someone else find issues!
- Update (05.09.21): Improved minimally tolerances. (This is the final Version!). Feel free to use it!
- Update (06.09.21): Corrected the mounting Holes, better belt alignment for clamping! (Housing & Z-Belt-Clamp-Upper)
- Update (27.09.21): Cover Release, the Alpha ones didn't fitted correctly. Tested Front-Idlers and using now! They are a pain in the butt to mount, since you have to push them from the end of the extrusion on. But the work absolutely perfect! Added a Housing for a M3x40mm screw, i had some nice ones that i preferred simply.
- Update (08.10.21): Just to take out some confusion: Front-Idlers_Housing and Front-Idlers_Housing-40mm, are the same, there is no difference other as, the default is for 30mm screws and the 40mm for 40mm screws. Use simply the one which you have screws for!
- Update (04.11.21): Thanks to Long, there is now an Inlet with a bigger Pinhole, we recommend the 5.1 Version. Something else: Ignore the GE5C version, this is just a test, you can use the normal Version. When i get a bit more time, i will update the idlers and make some nice Covers etc... Will give them a bit love. But rn, i have no time, sry :-(
- Update (10.11.21): GE5C "Offset" Version... There is a dot at the back, the dot should point to the GE5C Z-Joint side. Use hartk's z-belt-clamp-lower: https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/main/Voron%20Mods/Voron%202/2.4/Voron2.4_GE5C/STLs/%5Ba%5D_z_belt_clamp_lower_x4.stl and my "Front-Idlers_Z-Belt-Clamp-Upper-" Left & Right!
CREDITS: Voron-Team, Henrikssn, Long, TadasMit & all the great people we have in our community :-)
* Voron-Team: Yeah, without you Guys, nothing were possible here :-)* Henrikssn: For testing & improvement suggestions & for the cool Cover he made!
* Long: For the testing and suggesting improvements! Check out the Mantis & Mantis Mods!
* TadasMit: The one that took the time and made a Version for all the Trident People out there! Special Thanks!
* Community: Feelingwise discord is a Place filled with only nice and always helpful People! A special thanks to all of them, i personally just love everyone there!
Print Settings:
- Default Voron settings, correct orientation, no supports needed!- The inlet has 53° overhangs; you want to print the inlet with higher fan speed. (At least 50% in an enclosed printer for ABS!)
- Try to slide the Inlet in the housing, optimally it should slide fine and have almost no play. In worst case, print the inlet with even more fan and slower!
- Keep in mind, no play is impossible, but there should be only minimal axial play, only in the front of the inlet.
- Everything else should be a breeze to print!
- Seam: You don't want the seam outside, it will look ugly. Rotate the seam to the extrusion mounting side! (Should be "right"), Check the Picture:
BOM: (Multiply by 2 for Left+Right)
- 2x M3x30 SHCS (Full threaded) or M3x40 SHCS (Full threaded)- 1x M3x8 or M3x10
- 2x M3 Washer
- 2x M5 Washer
- 2x M3-Inserts
- 2x F695zz or F695-2RS bearing. (You should have this on your actual idler already)
- 1x 5x18 Pin (g6)
- 2x 3x6 Magnets
Tips:
Don't even think about buying the 5×18 Pins.You will need those pins later everywhere anyway.
Additionally, most pins that you buy come in H7 and not G6,
which means they are slightly too thick and you will have to grind them down to fit the bearing.
Instead, do yourself a favour and buy this one instead.
This one comes in G6 (so no grinding down needed for the bearing to fit) and you get them in 500mm super cheap.
You simply have to cut them to size.
Buy directly 2 500mm ones, because you will need them for a lot of other mods too!
Assembly:
- Insert the M5 shims and the F695zz bearings one by one and push the pin flush inside. (One by one, because there isn't enough place to put them all together inside)- As next step:
- The M3 inserts, doesn't mean to be inserted hot. Just take the Housing, Housing-Cover, 2x M3 Shims and 2x M3x30 screws, assemble it together and screw the m3 inserts simply inside with the tension of the screws. (They will push fit inside the hole while screwing)
- The rest is self explanatory.
- About the covers, I know that the holes there are big, far bigger than needed. But I will release better covers later and maybe different designs.
Description:
- The Problem: -1. The default idlers have the issue, at least for me, that the tensioning screw splits the 2 pieces apart.
2. The screw where the bearing sits on, gives the bearing a lot of play. This adds to inconsistencies, not much, but why shouldn't we improve it? Check the video: https://youtu.be/_tG0CdSuppk
- Mod: -
1. Fixes all issues above.
2. It's stiffer.
3. The idlers are 9mm thinner (a solution for Mantis owners).
4. I can't help myself, but I like the default idlers look. This ones looks in my opinion less vorondesign and more streamlined. I made some covers, but please feel free to open issues or whatever on GitHub with your opinions, how to give them the Voron "touch" or make them more beautiful.