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BOP-Keyboard

BOP stands for Big Ortho Project, a 6 row by 20 column ortholinear keyboard running off of the Teensy++2.0 Controller.

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REPO Contents:

  • Plate File in .dxf format, perfect for creating a 3D printed case from.
  • Various Pictures of the Prototype boards, also shown below.
  • QMK Hex and firmware coming soontm

Open Sourced PCB Files are for PERSONAL use only. Use for Commercial purposes without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Pictures

Image of BOP Image of BOP Image of BOP

Included in the Box:

Diodes - About 130x (120 needed)

Image of Diodes

Standoffs + Screws - M3 Size (10x Standoffs and 20x Screws)

Image of Standoffs

Controller Headers - 2x 20 pin male and female headers

Image of Headers

Stabilizers - 3x 2u Stabilizers

Image of Stabilizers

Rubber Feet - 8x Feet

Image of Feet

Controller - 1x Teensy++2.0 Micro Controller

Image of controller

Build Guide:

Total Estimated Time: 4-5 hours

Before you begin!

Please test your board, some boards have shown signs of multiple switches actuating at the same time or switches that are shorting out with nearby ones. You can test this by using a multimeter in continuity mode and test each pin on the socket to pins in the rows. If anything is wrong, please contact me via Discord DM or email and I'll work with you to take care of the issue.

Step 1: Diodes

Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

This is a really good video on how to solder smd diodes. I recommend you watch this before soldering.

Start by orienting the PCB so that you can read "Design by Fruitykeeb" straight on. Next, place a small amound of solder the pad opposite to the "K" on each of the diode locations.

Image of half pad

Next, using tweezers or something similar, grab one diode and heat the bit of solder you just placed. Once the solder starts to melt, slide the diode into position. Make sure the line on the diode is facing the "K" on the footprint. If it is not, key presses will not register!

Image of diode on

Finish the diodes by adding solder to the other pad.

Step 2: Headers

Estimated Time: 5-15 minutes

Keeping on the same side as the diodes, set the female headers onto the pcb. Making sure they are straight vertically, use tape to hold them in place.

Image of headers

Flip the pcb over and solder the headers in place. Make sure there are no shorts between pins.

Next, place the male headers onto the controller. The USB port should be facing up, leave the longer legs up as well. Using tape to hold them im place, flip the controller over and solder them in. Again, make sure there are no shorts between pins.

Press the controller in to test fit, but remove for flashing and switches.

Image of controller

Step 3: Flashing the controller

Estimated Time: 5 minutes

My using QMK Toolbox, Open the default hex in the /keymaps/hex folder of this repo.

In the MCU dropdown, select the at90usb1286 option. Plug in the Teensy++2.0 and press the reset button at the bottom, then click Flash in the toolbox, this will flash the controller to the keymap you specify.

Press the controller in and using Via and tweezers, bridge the contacts where the switches would be to test each key.

If there is an issue where the last column spams the keys, there is a workaround detailed here.

Step 4: Switches

Estimated Time: 45 mins - 1 hour.

If you are using stabilizers, put your stabilizers in now.

Start by pressing some switches into the plate. I recommend switches placed as in the picture below, but use enough so the plate doesn't fall down. Image of plate with switches

Flip the board over and solder in these first. Note: If you have a white pcb, the tolerances are tighter which makes pressing in switches harder. Double check that each switch is pressed fully in before soldering.

After these first switches are in, press in the remaining switches. Keep in mind that the top row, second column switch is rotated 180 from all the other switches.

Then, solder in the rest of the switches. Finally, press in the controller.

Image of all switches in

Step 5: Standoffs and Bottom Plate

Estimated Time: 5 minutes

Start by placing a screw in the switch plate, then thread the standoff onto it. Repeat this for all 10 holes. Flip the whole board over and set the bottom plate on top; you shoudl be able to read "BOP".

Using a screw driver, screw in the remaining screws and then place the rubber feet around the edge of the board.

Step 6: Enjoy!

Congratulations! You finished your BOP build! Add switches and start typing away!

The Workaround:

If you have an issue with your board spamming the far right column of keys, use this workaround.

On the bottom side of the controller, solder a short between pins C6 and C7. In the config.h file, change the last item in the MATRIX_COL_PINS array from C7 to C6.

Recompile the hex and reflash the MCU. This should fix the problem.

If this still does not work, clip the pins that go to ground from the micro controller.