sql, kv: add sql.mutations.max_row_size guardrails

[cockroach-teamcity]

cockroachdb/cockroach#67953 --- Release note (ops change): A new cluster setting, sql.mutations.max_row_size.log, was added, which controls large row logging. Whenever a row larger than this size is written (or a single column family if multiple column families are in use) a LargeRow event is logged to the SQL_PERF channel (or a LargeRowInternal event is logged to SQL_INTERNAL_PERF if the row was added by an internal query). This could occur for INSERT, UPSERT, UPDATE, CREATE TABLE AS, CREATE INDEX, ALTER TABLE, ALTER INDEX, IMPORT, or RESTORE statements. SELECT, DELETE, TRUNCATE, and DROP are not affected by this setting. Release justification: Low risk, high benefit change to existing functionality. This adds logging whenever a large row is written to the database. Default is 64 MiB, which is also the default for kv.raft.command.max_size, meaning on a cluster with default settings statements writing these rows will fail with an error anyway.

[michae2]

Note that this setting was renamed, as noted in #11164, and metrics were added, as noted in #11165.