sql, kv: add sql.mutations.max_row_size guardrails

[jseldess]

PR: cockroachdb/cockroach#67953

From release notes:

Added a new cluster setting, sql.mutations.max_row_size.log, which controls large row logging. Whenever a row larger than this size is written (or a single column family if multiple column families are in use) a LargeRow event is logged to the SQL_PERF channel (or a LargeRowInternal event is logged to SQL_INTERNAL_PERF if the row was added by an internal query). This could occur for INSERT, UPSERT, UPDATE, CREATE TABLE AS, CREATE INDEX, ALTER TABLE, ALTER INDEX, IMPORT, or RESTORE statements. SELECT, DELETE, TRUNCATE, and DROP are not affected by this setting. [#67953][#67953]

[michae2]

Note that this setting was renamed, as described in #11485, and metrics were added, as described in #11490.