ep1_en.sbv

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Hi. I'm Seungwon Kim.

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I am going to share with you my theories and techniques on forward stance carving.

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I plan to make 5 ~ 10 YouTube clips
easy to understand for self-taught borders.

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I will try to make it easy to understand and follow.
Hopefully you will like it.

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I have one thing to tell you.

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Forward stance carving theories don't have a long history,

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So the way to explain and riding skills may vary with different instructors.

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I totally respect each riders' skills.

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For 15 years of snowboard riding
I have studied the theory and practiced by myself.

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I am not saying mine is totally right.

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If you have a someone who is teaching you
trust him/her and follow what they are saying.

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The best guide is who teaches by you.

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Thank you.

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First let's set up the equipment.

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Many people miss importance of proper equipment setup.

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If you just copy the binding stance of your friend or a rider you like,

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the angles/stance might not match your body physique and can cause injury.

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When you practice beginner level skills like basic carving, etc.

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wrong binding setup will disturb your training.

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I am going to show you how to set up the equipment
to make your practice better.

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First you should set up the stance.

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There is no one proper stance.

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The width depends on your style.

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There are two approaches.

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1. The stance depends mostly on your height.

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The width should be roughly equal to the distance
from the middle of your kneecap to the ground.

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2. Pick a proper snowboard on your height and set up the default stance

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In my case it is 54-55 cm from toe to my knee.

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My snowboard is 163 cm.

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Default stance width is 54 cm for this snowboard.

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As you can see make the stance width up to your knee
from toe or follow the default stance. It will be similar.

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If you have a rider or style what you want to follow
you can make it narrower or wider base on their setting.

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Lets discuss strong and weak points of each stance width.

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The strong points of wide stance is it's easiness to control weight shift.

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When your stance is narrow

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in case of resistance from the nose,
your weight shifts to the front.

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Due to stance being narrow it becomes hard to control weight shift.
(you might be pushed too far forward)

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The wide stance will enable you to block the shift of weight with both your legs like this.

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It's easier to control the weight shift.

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Then it is a similar context.

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Beginners often have issues with heel side chattering.
(more on that in detail later on).

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One of the solutions to heel side chatter is stretching out your front leg.

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Stretching out the front leg assists in uncontrolled forward weight shifts.

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Basically you should ride inclined backwards.

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When the stance is too narrow for you,
even though your front leg is stretched

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in case of nose drag you still might be pushed forward uncontrollably.

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So the wider stance has benefits.

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Now let's discuss the benefits of narrow stance.

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Narrow stance is in the center of the board.

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Your weight is focused on the middle of the board making it easier to bend the board

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Board being bent more makes smaller turns

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The stronger press the more dynamic turn

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Narrow stance also helps the rider to rotate his/hers pelvis.

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In case of wide stance like this

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when you try to twist your pelvis

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it is hard to move like this.

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Narrowing the stance makes it easy to move your pelvis.

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If you are not skilled in the pelvis rotation,
make your stance narrow.

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It will be helpful to you.

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The next step is setting up the angles of the bindings.

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Setting up the bindings' angles is really important.

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People who ride in duck stance and enjoy trick or sliding turns.

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They still want to try those.

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It is quite hard for them to make forward riding stance.

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To ride in forward stance
it is necessary to set up the binding angle drastic.

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Because the duck stance make it hard to rotate the pelvis.

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When the riders in duck stance try pelvis rotation
there is wide gap between two legs.

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It can't ride well.

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I strongly recommend setting up the stance drastic.

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If you want to try trick

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or have difficulty sliding turn

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change the angle little by little.

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How to set up the front foot?

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Just follow your role model rider or your friend's.
(more than end of 30 degree)

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You can copy mine. (42 or 45 degree)

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The rear foot is pretty important.

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The setting depends on your flexibility.

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Start with 15 degrees less than the front foot.

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Fix the binding.

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Then put your knees together.

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When you make your knees close

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A gap which a hand can pass through is the best.

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Do not apply pressure.

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Do not make it tight.

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Just put your knees together slightly.

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I suggest the distance with slight gap.

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Of course there are various riding styles.

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Some people push the rear knee bit more like this.

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Some people put the knees wide like this.

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In my case setting I set up the distance with slight gap between two knees.

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Ah!  If your boots are big, I mean you have big feet

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when you set up the rear foot based on your flexibility
it can cause boot out.

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Set up your rear foot so the boot out doesn't occur.

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Let's set up the highbacks now.

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We're interested in highback rotation.

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The setting of front foot is clockwise direction.

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It is better to rotate clockwise as much as possible.
(on regular stance)

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Because you need to stretch your front leg a lot
when you begin hillside turn.

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Highback covering the inner side of the calf
makes it hard to stretch the front leg.

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Some riders cut out the highback before.

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There are low-backs like shorter high-backs.

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There is reason.

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It restricts stretching the front leg.

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For the rear foot I keep the default highback setting with no rotation.

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Some people say to do the highback rotation counterclockwise,

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while others say to do the highback rotation counterclockwise.

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The reason is that if you do it counterclockwise (for regular rider),

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when you rotate the pelvis,

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you can get ?little? sit properly on rear leg axis
because you press the calf.

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And if you do it clockwise, when you do the pelvic rotation

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and turn the edge over,

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you can be easier to turn the edge over

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by holding the left side properly.

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There are people who say,

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"Do it clockwise" or "Do it counterclockwise"

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because there are pros and cons,

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I think both of them are important,

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so I prefer to use them as the basic setting value.

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Then, "Highback forward lean" refers to leaning forward.

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In the case of this as I said before,

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I don't do forward lean to make the front leg stretch out properly.

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For the rear foot, when you first do it, you can setup without leaning.

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or you can set it to lean one or two step.

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If you feel uncomfortable doing basic carving later with forward lean

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just remove the lean and start practicing.

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If you ride well later, when you feel like getting bouncing when you do heel side carve,

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or when you think it's hard to get edge angle,

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you can lean highback little by little.

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For a novice, when doing basic carving or some basic practice afterwards,

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it is comfortable without leaning the highback.

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And finally, I'd like to talk about matching binding centering.

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When you match the centering

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most people put the binding disc like this.

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When you look at a deck like this, it's normal to put it in 11 characters.

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Sometimes, some people put it horizontally
in order to set the stance width exactly as they want.

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Of course, it doesn't matter

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if the boot's centering is exactly right when you put it horizontally,

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but I recommend that you put it in 11 characters to make it more accurate.

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You can change the binding later,

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or you can change your boots,

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and then maybe the centering will go wrong.

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Because of that, you can just put it in 11.

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Even if stance width is not the setting you want,

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just use it nearby.

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I recommend that you use the centering in more detail and accurately.

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So far, we've been looking at setting up equipment.

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As you can see, setting up the equipment according to your body is crucial,

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so that you don't have to miss the practice due to the equipment.