tipsntricks.md

Tips & Tricks

• Photorealism is a painting style. Photographers wouldn't label their own photographs as photorealistic. If you want something resembling a photograph, consider just specifying a camera body, film stock, or simply photograph or 35mm photograph.
• 35mm focal length generally produces the best focal length results
• weight film stock to lessen over-saturation (see weights & phrasing for examples).
• Language like wide shot, portrait, or zoomed in can often achieve similar or better results than using focal lengths
• Wider focal lengths often result in a ‘fish-eye’ effect, and a larger amount of the image in focus. Narrower focal lengths usually result in heavy depth of field and bokeh/blur.
• Using focal lengths and similar language can change the composition of your image (subject-centric for longer lengths, environment-centric for wider lengths).
• Generally an ISO of 50-200 (ex: Cinestill 50) should produce less grainy images than say 200 and up. Grain is usually the same intensity (unless weighted) once you hit 200 and up.
• Adding the company name ‘Fuji’ sometimes puts mount Fuji in the image
• Be sure to use film stocks, focal lengths, and other terms alongside other prompt language; these terms augment your prompts.
• Pick the correct aspect ratio for your image (2:3/vertical rectangle good for portraits, 3:2/horizontal rectangle good for landscapes)
• B&W film stocks often produce the most cohesive/realistic results
• Any words you use in your prompt influence your image. For example, ...zoom zoom, 14mm.... Even though you might be trying to describe a fast car, MJ might take zoom to mean a long focal length, effectively cancelling out your 14mm instruction.
• Couple various camera bodies and film stocks for more variation when specifying a camera body. For example, marble greek bust, Mamiya RZ67, Fomapan 400 —ar 3:2 —sameseed 1 —uplight:
  

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