- JLC PCB accepts revisions if you contact customer support quickly.
- Ensure breakout pins are aligned to a 0.1" grid.
- Ensure USB traces are correctly sized to get the correct impedance.
- This involves a lot of maths. Use a calculator.
- Screw switch has large thermal mass, so it needs to be soldered first.
- It is also large, so the nut should be located far away from other components so you can actually solder them.
- Eggtimer uses a brass nut, but I was able to get it to work with random M3s I found lying around.
- Chromed or galved nuts don't work.
- Needs to have some form of shake-prevention, e.g. nylock or shakeproof washer.
- JLC fills hole with copper, which needs to be filed out.
- M2 is probably more reasonable.
- Aside from this, seems to work well as a detail.
- 0603's are the absolute smallest that can be soldered with "normal" soldering supplies.
- 0806 is probably more reasonable.
- 0402 is pain.
- Hot air and flux make everything so much easier.
- Fluid tension pulls components into alignment in a very satisfying way.
- Flux doesn't hold QFNs that well, but heating the board and dropping the package on seems to work.
- Leaving flux on the board too long can tarnish the pads.
- May affect reliability.
- Is ugly as sin.
- Pads can still be tinned, but the easiest solution is to not let it happen.
- Clean board with IPA and and old toothbrush.
- 0402s have a nasty tendency to tombstone.
- 5032 crystals are hard to find.
- Placing tight arrays of components is difficult.
- JLC have an assembly option.
- LED does not need to be nearly that bright. Use a 220R current limiter.
- Buy the right size of component, you moron.
- 0.5 mm text is too small, 0.75-1 is probably more reasonable
- Thermal relief will make soldering things to GND so much easier.
- Buzzer is not very loud, maybe run it off VBAT?
- Its perfectly safe to use a button on BOOTSEL.