Support for Ifan02 #2839
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I just ordered 9 on the same assumption. There's probably just a pin to PWM for the LED, not sure about the speed. And getting that remote to still work will be fun. |
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Support might me added but do not expect it within 8 weeks. |
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I can ship you one if it'll help but I understand if you have other time demands. I can probably hack in some support for the basics, not sure about the remote or the fan speeds though. |
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I can wait I just ordered 1 |
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Me too. Got one on the way. |
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Really great if support is added! Got one. Don’t know how it works though to control speed and light color |
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Im going to assume it works exactly the same as everyother fan controller, it just uses a different comms protocol to communicate to it than the switch. But these look out standing, and i will be upgrading as soon as we have some custom firmware for them! |
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to be honest - i wont be waiting for firmware - i'll just use the controller for now |
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Anxious to see who gets one first and pops it open. |
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we have a couple en route...
…On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 11:09 AM digiblur ***@***.***> wrote:
Anxious to see who gets one first and pops it open.
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I just love that it is a pop in replacement, and has WAF via the remote
control (i already have a remote on my fans) and will integrate into Home
Assistant, so i can turn on and off with motion sensors etc.
And in the mean time, i can just use it as is!
On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 11:17 AM Leigh van der Merwe <palitu822@gmail.com>
wrote:
… we have a couple en route...
On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 11:09 AM digiblur ***@***.***>
wrote:
> Anxious to see who gets one first and pops it open.
>
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What the fun without tasmota.... Hehe |
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oh no - i want Tasmota on it, but i can improve what i have in the mean time :) |
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I can wait , thanks 👍 |
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I ordered a few of them, but the ebay vendor canceled my order. Now the item appears to have disappeared from ebay entirely? |
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I just got shipping confirmation from iTead. |
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Can't wait to see internal pics! |
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My ifan02 is on the way. When received all I need is a fan (LOL) and good weather... |
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ordered 2 of them and are being delivered via DHL today ... will post pictures as soon as they get here .... feels like Christmas morning ... lol |
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Good News: Bad News: Next Project: |
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Thanks Matt! |
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I don't recall the light being dimmable on their description. Curious to see someone put a volt/current meter measurements on it. I do see a few jumper pins. |
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this is from there site but like I said maybe I'm missing something ... lol https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-ifan02-wifi-smart-ceiling-fan-with-light.html |
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I don't know how they're claiming that there's a bicolor, color-temp adjustable LED output on this thing, it's clearly just one relay for the output on the light. I'll trace more of it later, interested in getting under the can and also sniffing the remote (probably 433mhz) one of these even: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Hot-selling-FANHAR-W11-1A2STE-5VDC_60553617588.html |
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I would imagine that there is a triac chopping the wave to dim the light a bit. Hopefully the fan integration actually works! |
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Hi. I'm a bit of a noob to all this. I used a CH340G to flash 2 Sonoff/TH16's - no issues. Now I'm trying to flash the ifan02. I'm struggling to understand the power part, do I literally wire the ifan02 to 120v AC coming from the wall to flash this? Has anyone has written up some detailed steps just on the flashing part for the ifan02? Appreciate any advice.... thank you. |
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I have wired it to the wall, but it’s not advisable- instead use a serial
adapter that can supply 5vdc to run it.
…On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 5:39 PM sean ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi. I'm a bit of a noob to all this. I used a CH340G to flash 2
Sonoff/TH16's - no issues. Now I'm trying to flash the ifan02. I'm
struggling to understand the power part, do I literally wire the ifan02 to
120v AC coming from the wall to flash this? Has anyone has written up some
detailed steps just on the flashing part for the ifan02? Appreciate any
advice.... thank you.
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I know of no device that one programs with AC connected. I would not do that. Wait for someone that has done this to reply. I do not have one but will get the version 3 when it is released.
Good luck
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
“We do the things we have to so we can do the things we want to"
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
… On Jun 22, 2019, at 5:39 PM, sean ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi. I'm a bit of a noob to all this. I used a CH340G to flash 2 Sonoff/TH16's - no issues. Now I'm trying to flash the ifan02. I'm struggling to understand the power part, do I literally wire the ifan02 to 120v AC coming from the wall to flash this? Has anyone has written up some detailed steps just on the flashing part for the ifan02? Appreciate any advice.... thank you.
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Yeah - my conservative nature says connecting to AC is just wrong....will wait for someone has done this is the plan @Sawadee2u . Thanks! :) |
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If flashing using the serial interface, NEVER connect the device to AC mains. The only time you can flash a device while plugged into mains is when you flash it OTA (e.g., Tuya-Convert). |
@sschnoor Just to be really clear, (it's great that you knew enough to come ask first) the reason you shouldn't flash while powered up on AC is the danger - to you, and to your computer, serial interface and connected devices. Since you are flashing the very low voltage areas (3V), you can power the important parts using a 3.3V DC supply onto the pad usually labelled VCC (positive or "+") and GND (negative or "-"). |
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I would like to clairfy some things. The ifan02 can be flash safely (if you are very careful) while powered by 120 and connected to a computer. I have 3 and did this so can confirm that it works and so do my computers. In fact this page https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Sonoff-iFan02 hints at that and I believe use to even explain that doing so was okay because the power is isolated. It should be noted that this isn't the case with all sonoff devices. I guess I should mention that there are safer ways to do this mentioned in this thread and you shouldn't use the 120v method of you are 100% confident in your abilities to do so. |
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"I'm a bit of a noob to all this" - this is the red flag that caused me to
recommend that the OP not attempt mains power to flash. But, at the end of
the day, this is "at your own risk".
…On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 8:05 PM William Scanlon ***@***.***> wrote:
I would like to clairfy some things.
The ifan02 can be flash safely (if you are very careful) while powered by
120 and connected to a computer. I have 3 and did this so can confirm that
it works and so do my computers.
In fact this page
https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Sonoff-iFan02 hints at
that and I believe use to even explain that doing so was okay because the
power is isolated.
It should be noted that this isn't the case with all sonoff devices.
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@w1ll1am23 , hello. Have you written up any steps do this? I'm seeing bits and pieces of steps in the thread here, but was hoping for something more complete. And fwiw - seems my noob comment was misunderstood (but appreciate the caution from everyone ;] )- I simply meant new to flashing these types of devices. As far as working with AC/main power, I've installed sub-panels, re-wired my house, etc. Thanks! |
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I highly recommend picking up something like the μArt for flashing devices like this. It has full galvanic isolation so is pretty safe to use to flash stuff connected to mains power. It doesn't protect from being an idiot and hooking it up wrong or just touching the wrong thing when connected to mains, so the safest is still what everyone keeps saying and "just don't hook it up to mains power when flashing". I've got one and it is my go-to for flashing pretty much everything even if it isn't hooked up to mains power. |
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There should be a diagram in the wiki for a power supply/flasher circuit that I created. While you could flash connected to ac why would you want to put yourself at unnecessary risk if there is a safer alternative? |
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Hi all, new user from the Netherlands here. I've started using Domoticz a few months ago and progressed to Sonoff and Tasmota soon after. I've managed to flash and control quite a few Basics and a Touch T2. I'm working on controlling my ceiling fan right now using the Ifan02. I've got the hard part done, unit is flashed and installed. I've configured MQTT and Domoticz services and created two virtual switches (one for the light and one for the fanspeed). The light switch works, but I can't get the fanspeed to work. I've created a button switch with four options (off, one, two and three) but this sends the wrong MQTT messages. How do I get this to work properly? Thanks for the advice. Regards, Ward |
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@Bizzarrini can you tell me how you went about flashing your ifan02? Thank you |
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@sschnoor sure, actually I just followed the instructions on this page and the Tasmota wiki. I used a serial to usb convertor to connect GND, TX and RX while I powered the Ifan02 unit from one of my NodeMCU devices attached to a powerbank. I interconnected the GND of all devices first. For flashing I used the NodeMCU firmware flashing tool. |
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The mqtt endpoint for fan speed is cmnd/fanspeed. Is that what you are using? If not, tell us what steps you have taken to debug and share your setup to that we can better understand the issues. On 1 Jul 2019 21:51, Bizzarrini <notifications@github.com> wrote:Hi all, new user from the Netherlands here. I've started using Domoticz a few months ago and progressed to Sonoff and Tasmota soon after. I've managed to flash and control quite a few Basics and a Touch T2. I'm working on controlling my ceiling fan right now using the Ifan02. I've got the hard part done, unit is flashed and installed. I've configured MQTT and Domoticz services and created two virtual switches (one for the light and one for the fanspeed). The light switch works, but I can't get the fanspeed to work. I've created a button switch with four options (off, one, two and three) but this sends the wrong MQTT messages. How do I get this to work properly? Thanks for the advice. Regards, Ward
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Thanks for your reply. In the Tasmota settings it's possible to define an MQTT server, which I've also added to Domoticz. I've created two virtual switches in Domoticz. In the Tasmota interface it's possible to enter the switch ID'S so tasmota can communicate with Domoticz through the pre defined MQTT server. This way I can switch the light (as I've also accomplished with a few Sonoff Basics), however the commands originating from the Domoticz fan switch don't match the expected input to Tasmota. |
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So it sounds like domoticz is just sending an on/off command to power2 Which won't always work when tasmota is expecting a numerical message sent to fanspeed. Are you convinced that domoticz is flexible enough to support your use case?On 2 Jul 2019 10:24, Bizzarrini <notifications@github.com> wrote:Thanks for your reply. In the Tasmota settings it's possible to define an MQTT server, which I've also added to Domoticz. I've created two virtual switches in Domoticz. In the Tasmota interface it's possible to enter the switch ID'S so tasmota can communicate with Domoticz through the pre defined MQTT server. This way I can switch the light (as I've also accomplished with a few Sonoff Basics), however the commands originating from the Domoticz fan switch don't match the expected input to Tasmota.
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Thanks for the quick response! I'm quite new to Domoticz and especially MQTT so I'm unsure, however as Tasmota integrated the options to include two switch ID's I assumed it was possible without much hassle. I guess the other option would be to use a script to assign the correct MQTT messages to the switch positions, but that's something I have zero experience with unfortunately. I'll look into this option. |
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I don't use domoticz at all. Are you able to specify arbitrary topics and payloads?If so use cmdn/fanspeed as the end of your topic and + as the payload. Try to get that working and move on from there. It will cycle between fan speeds. Alternatively I have written a script and web page to control the ifan. Runs on Linux. Best used if you can access the web page externally. On 2 Jul 2019 10:32, Bizzarrini <notifications@github.com> wrote:Thanks for the quick response! I'm quite new to Domoticz and especially MQTT so I'm unsure, however as Tasmota integrated the options to include two switch ID's I assumed it was possible without much hassle. I guess the other option would be to use a script to assign the correct MQTT messages to the switch positions, but that's something I have zero experience with unfortunately. I'll look into this option.
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Ok for unknown reason it's working now. I checked the ingoing mqtt messages to Domoticz when I changed fanspeed from the Tasmota web interface, and they read like I then created a selector switch in Domoticz with levels 0, 10, 20 and 30 and named them off, 1, 2 and 3. Outgoing message now looks like Works like a charm now. Thanks for all the advice! Ps: any ideas on how to change the battery level output in the message to 255 coming from Tasmota? |
possible to see a screenshot of your fan02? |
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Hello all, I'm very amateur when it comes to electronics but, I got an iFan02 for a US ceiling fan and I'm having the same issues as reported by others above where the fan rotates extremely-slow, slow and not-so-slow-but-quite-fast. The capacitor on my fan only has 3 wires: Here's the diagram of the wiring for my fan: How can I make iFan02 to work properly here? I'm not opposed to solder the iFan's capacitors out and put something else there, I just need help to know what that something else is and how the fan wiring should look like. I do have a few 5uF capacitors but I'm not sure if I should use those on the iFan02 since that's not what the fan itself uses. TIA |
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Use the pull chord to put the fan on maximum speed and then install the ifan. Don't use the pull chord againIf somehow you do pull the chord then put the ifan on maximum speed and then pull the chord sequentially until the fan spins more or less at top speed. On 5 Jun 2020 23:07, Joel Fernandes <notifications@github.com> wrote:
Hello all,
I'm very amateur when it comes to electronics but, I got an iFan02 for a US ceiling fan and I'm having the same issues as reported by others above where the fan rotates extremely-slow, slow and not-so-slow-but-quite-fast.
The capacitor on my fan only has 3 wires:
Here's the diagram of the wiring for my fan:
How can I make iFan02 to work properly here? I'm not opposed to solder the iFan's capacitors out and put something else there, I just need help to know what that something else is and how the fan wiring should look like.
TIA
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I had it in the position of full speed. I'm not sure if it was before installing the iFan or if I did that after. Does that really make a difference? |
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No. It doesn't make a difference other than being easier to determine. Do you have a tool to measure the capacitances?On 6 Jun 2020 01:18, Joel Fernandes <notifications@github.com> wrote:
I had it in the position of full speed. I'm not sure if it was before installing the iFan or if I did that after. Does that really make a difference?
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@joel
I’ve been thinking about this quite a bit today as I have a current project to build an improved version of the iFan for my fans (mostly I don’t like the form factor of the iFan as it does not fit the kind of fans I have got). From what I read online whilst the majority of fans are split capacitor variants, some have permanently wired start capacitors and windings. Another variation is that some have rotary switches that pass the current through to the motor directly in fan speed 3 and then via the capacitor legs in fan speeds 1 and 2, whereas others will pass the current through to one leg, then the other and then both for speed control (the higher the capacitance the higher the effective speed).
In the standard ifan02 configuration of two caps (2.5uF and 3uF) my calculations show that the resultant speeds for you should be very close to your current settings (if the pull-chord is at max speed). At slow speed the resultant capacitance would be 1.54uF, (versus your 1.5uF) and at medium it is 2.32uF (versus your 2.5uF). But since you are reporting that the slow and medium speeds are very different something else may be afoot.
However … you are reporting that the slow value is in fact ‘extremely slow’ which means that there must be more capacitance being introduced somewhere. If you’re certain that this is not just observer bias, then I’d recommend testing by putting the module into generic mode (18) and setting the following
Then select relays 2 to 4 in whatever combination you want and make a note of what feels best to you in terms of slow, medium and fast fan speeds (remembering that the iFan2 ’standards’ are as above.
Armed with what you feel is best, the code can be altered to suit you. However - just as a warning - I’m not sure if this will override the remote control fan speed setting as that may not be handled by the ESP826x processor but it would at least give you control via physical buttons and mqtt/web interfaces.
If nothing seems to be adequate then there is a soldering solution too. It will also involve a custom build of tasmota (if you want to use the fanSpeed commands); and this would mean that all subsequent upgrades would need to be manually compiled. The change is only a couple of lines however.
… On 6 Jun 2020, at 08:58, ***@***.*** wrote:
No. It doesn't make a difference other than being easier to determine.
Do you have a tool to measure the capacitances?
On 6 Jun 2020 01:18, Joel Fernandes ***@***.***> wrote:
I had it in the position of full speed. I'm not sure if it was before installing the iFan or if I did that after. Does that really make a difference?
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No. It doesn't make a difference other than being easier to determine.
Do you have a tool to measure the capacitances?
On 6 Jun 2020 01:18, Joel Fernandes ***@***.***> wrote:
>
> I had it in the position of full speed. I'm not sure if it was before installing the iFan or if I did that after. Does that really make a difference?
>
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I don’t. fwiw, I did have the fan speed set to maximum when having the ifan connected. Can’t I remove the capacitor from the fan and have Iran’s capacitors to handle the speed? |
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hmm. i see that the images in my earlier post got stripped. to recap the image textually: set GPIO4 to relay3, GPIO5 to relay2, gpio12 to relay1 and gpio 15 to relay4. I would not do as you suggest as you are then passing full mains to your motor’s coils. It will probably not start at all as there would be no phase angle for the starting coils. But you could maybe work around that by starting at a lower speed and then going to full speed. and the coils may not be able to accept that voltage resulting in a burn out or the fan spinning inappropriately fast for the bearings. if you did want to try that route and not use the pass through relay, then you would not be able to match all three speeds as the capacitor values available to you are only 2.5uF, 3uF and 5.5uF. the fast speed would be (potentially) too fast for your fan (which is tuned to a 4uF capacitance most likely) and the slowest speed would be equivalent to your current medium speed. You again run the risk of damage, although more likely to be damage to the bearings. and you would again need a specially compiled binary. |
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I modified my ifan02 with the dual cap out of my 110vac fan (US). I think
there’s some pics up further from way back. IIRC the cap values were 4uf
and 8uf. The stock caps yielded the speeds: full, about what low was,
barely rotating.
I’ve seen comments that the ifan02 caps were built for 220v fans.
Frankly I’m about to pull it out and replace with a single relay
automation. Having speed control just isn’t that important to me.
welbo
On Sat, Jun 6, 2020 at 10:11 jpadie ***@***.***> wrote:
hmm. i see that the images in my earlier post got stripped. to recap the
image textually:
set GPIO4 to relay3, GPIO5 to relay2, gpio12 to relay1 and gpio 15 to
relay4.
I would not do as you suggest as you are then passing full mains to your
motor’s coils. It will *probably* not start at all as there would be no
phase angle for the starting coils. But you could maybe work around that by
starting at a lower speed and then going to full speed. and the coils may
not be able to accept that voltage resulting in a burn out or the fan
spinning inappropriately fast for the bearings.
if you did want to try that route *and not use the pass through relay*,
then you would not be able to match all three speeds as the capacitor
values available to you are only 2.5uF, 3uF and 5.5uF. the fast speed would
be (potentially) too fast for your fan (which is tuned to a 4uF capacitance
most likely) and the slowest speed would be equivalent to your current
medium speed. You again run the risk of damage, although more likely to be
damage to the bearings. and you would again need a specially compiled
binary.
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Thank you,
Will
979-492-5484 cell
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and others
Hi, Just ordered 2 of these and was wondering if there will be any support for them in the near future ?
Sonoff iFan02: Convert Non-smart LED Ceiling Fan to WiFi Smart Ceiling Fan with Light
Model: IM170811003
Remote ON/OFF–Turn on/off the fan and light from anywhere
Control Fan Speed–Change the fan speed level: 1/2/3/Smart
Adjust the light intensity–Dimmable lights support: white/warm white/warm
Thanks
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